Issuing from a field blend in phylloxera-resistant sand – including Sciacarellu, Minustellu and Cinsault – that began life as a farmer’s family plot of vines and is now said to have reached 140 years, Clos Canarelli’s Rouge is utterly distinct from any of this estate’s other wines, or indeed any other Corsicans I have tasted. Smoky, sweaty, leathery, and resinous herbal notes in the nose segue into a palate impression dominated by mint-tinged wild cherry laced with rose hip and candied orange rind. This put me a bit in mind of Black Muscat (Brachetto), an impression reinforced by the silken feel, buoyancy and relatively pale color of this remarkable libation. Smoky black tea, zesty candied citrus, pungently resinous herbs, intriguing animal notes and saliva-inducing salinity combine for a long, engrossing and invigorating finish. I envision this being worth following for at least the better part of a decade, but that vision is, I readily admit, informed entirely by guesswork.
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